9 Quick Electrical Questions #5
1. Can you plug 3-wire plugs into all of your outlets?
2. Do you have GFCI outlets in the kitchen, bathrooms, and garage?
3. Are all your light switches in convenient locations?
4. Do you have enough outlets in every room?
5. Is your electrical panel properly labeled and up to code?
6. Do you have outdoor GFCI outlets?
7. Do you have adequate outdoor lighting?
8. Do breakers or fuses stay on all time?
9. Do you have a generator for backup power during outages?

If you said "No" to any of these questions, then it is time to call an electrician for some
upgrades or fixes in your electrical system.

Is your electrical panel properly labeled and up to code?

This is a two-part question. The first one is very easy to answer. The second one… well,
that part is a bit more complicated.

Is your electrical panel properly labeled? This might not seem like an important question
until you have an electrical problem or want to isolate and turn off a circuit. If the
panel is not properly labeled how will you know which circuit to turn off? Worse yet,
what if the panel is labeled incorrectly? You could think you are turning off the correct
circuit but find it is still on when you go to work on the problem.

This happened to me when I was working on replacing a sand mound pump. I turned off the
circuit breaker marked as such and thought I was safe to make the replacement. As I was
removing the wiring on the original pump, I received an electric shock because the circuit
was still on. It turned out that the panel was mislabeled. It was my fault because I should
have double-checked to see if I had, in fact, turned off the proper circuit, but I simply
trusted the label and was in for a shocking surprise.

Properly labeling your electrical panel will help both you and anyone else who might work
on your electrical system. An old adage comes to mind here: “An ounce of prevention is worth
a pound of cure.” Make sure your electrical panel is properly labeled.

So how do you check to make sure you panel is labeled properly or how do you go about
labeling it if it is currently not labeled? It will take some time and effort but it can be
safely and efficiently done one circuit at a time. When I am working at a customer’s home,
I use special tools that help me detect if a circuit is live or if I have turned off the
proper circuit. These tools can also be used to indicate which circuit breaker controls
which exact circuit in your home. This important detail is often overlooked by too many homeowners.

The second part of this question: is your electrical panel up to code is a bit more involved.
Many older homes and old electric panels are up to code but are undersized. For example, many
older homes have a 100 amp service. These days we install a 200 amp service because we use a
lot of electricity in our homes. So in this case, an older 100 amp service might still be up
to code but still a bit inefficient for modern day use.

Some older homes have a fuse box instead of a circuit breaker panel. This is acceptable for
every day use but is way outdated. There are quite a few problems with these old fuse panels.
One quick example is if you overload a circuit. When you do, the fuse literally blows and
you must replace it. With a modern day circuit breaker you simple turn the breaker to the
off position and then turn it on again. This is much cheaper than replacing fuses all the time.

Another related problem is determining which fuse is blown. Sometimes it is very evident but
sometimes it is not. With a circuit breaker you can quickly and easily see which circuit is out
because the breaker will be in the middle position unlike the rest, which are in the on position.
Sometimes finding the blown fuse takes some trial and error, not to mention time.

Grounding systems have also been affected by the new electrical code. Many older homes have
one ground rod for the grounding system. Today this is inefficient and current code requires
at least two grounding rods placed at least six feet apart. Another frequent problem in older
homes is two-conductor wires without a ground wire for receptacles and switches.

If you are considering any electrical upgrades I strongly recommend upgrading your electric
panel if it is not a 200 amp circuit breaker type. The upgrade is not cheap but there are good
reasons why the electric code has changed over the years. Besides, peace of mind does not
really have a low price all the time.

There are two things I am going to ask you to look at on your electric panel. First, check and
see if your electric panel is labeled properly. If it is not, then make plans to correct this
simple problem. Secondly, look at your electric panel to see if it is a 200 amp service (the number
will be on the main disconnect) and if it uses circuit breakers. If this is not the case, then
seriously consider getting an upgrade.


9 Quick Electrical Questions #4
1. Can you plug 3-wire plugs into all of your outlets?
2. Do you have GFCI outlets in the kitchen, bathrooms, and garage?
3. Are all your light switches in convenient locations?
4. Do you have enough outlets in every room?
5. Is your electrical panel properly labeled and up to code?
6. Do you have outdoor GFCI outlets?
7. Do you have adequate outdoor lighting?
8. Do breakers or fuses stay on all time?
9. Do you have a generator for backup power during outages?

If you said "No" to any of these questions, then it is time to call an electrician for some
upgrades or fixes in your electrical system.

The fourth question asks if you have enough outlets in every room. The basic premise of
this question is the convenience: do you have enough outlets in each room for all the
lights, appliances, computers, etc. that you need to run? Do you have to use extension
cords? A common problem in older homes is a lack of outlets in many rooms or outlets spaced
too far apart from each other.

Each floor light, appliance, etc. should have it’s own plug-in outlet. Computers can and
should use surge protectors, but everything else should be able to plug directly into an
outlet and stay there without having to unplug it in order to plug something else you want
to use in its place.

The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires outlets to be spaced no farther than 12’ apart
in most rooms. Kitchen counters need outlets to be closer together and in two different
circuits nowadays. The reason for this is because we now have so many convenient appliances
like toasters, air fryers, slow cookers, coffee and espresso makers, and so much more. I often
recommend going above code on the number of outlets because of the convenience factor and one
never knows how many more devices or appliances might be used down the road.

Besides the convenience factor, here is another related question: do you keep tripping breakers
or popping fuses when you use certain devices or appliances at the same time? If you do, then
more outlets and circuits are needed. In older homes, it was common to run many rooms on one
circuit. I just recently worked on a home this year, which had four rooms, most of the entire
downstairs, all on one circuit. The customer was complaining that when the dishwasher and microwave
ran at the same time, a breaker would trip. Likewise, they had to plan on using the washing machine
at a time when the kitchen appliances were not being used. Solving this issue was simply a
matter of adding two additional circuits and splitting the load so things could keep running
at the same time and keep working. The day after installing the additional circuits, the customer
was elated. This is how it should have been working all along.

Most outlets today are technically duplex outlets—two plug-ins stacked in a vertical row. There is
some debate how these duplex outlets ought to be installed. Previously, the outlets were installed
with the ground hole on the bottom but this has changed. Let’s look at some of the common sense behind
this change. Suppose someone drops a flat table knife and it travels on top of a plug in an outlet.
Let’s also suppose that the outlet is fairly old and worn and the plug does not stay in tightly. The
knife could fall behind the plug and cause an arc if it touched the hot and neutral blades of the plug
at the same time. This problem could be avoided if we install the duplex outlet in with the ground
hole up. If the knife falls in this position and the plug is slightly loose the knife will hit the
ground blade and not the hot and neutral, which are below the ground blade in this installation. Does
that make sense? There are a few exceptions to this new standard. Some appliances have a plug that
naturally falls down into position with the ground blade down instead of up. If it was installed
with the ground hole up, the plug would not hang properly, look funny, and potentially cause more
wear and tear on the outlet than needed. In this scenario we should mount the outlet with the ground
hole down.

We also use Tamper Resistant outlets these days. TR (Tamper Resistant) outlets have a small shield
that covers the two prong holes (hot and neutral) until something is plugged into the outlet. The idea
behind this feature is to prevent children or anyone from inserting something into one of the prong holes
and getting an electrical shock. A very good friend of mine saw this happen when he was a young boy. He
saw his younger brother grab a key and start moving toward an outlet. In his own words, he says that he
knew his brother was not supposed to do this but he wanted to see what would happen. It was kind of an
experiment but totally at his brother’s expense. His brother did insert that key into the outlet and
into the hot side. It immediately arced, welded the key into the socket, and threw his younger brother
across the room! Their mother came running in from another room, asking what in the world happened. My
friend was calm and said, “I watched him… he did it!” If Tamper Resistant outlets existed back then, his
younger brother would never have been able to insert that key into one side of the outlet.

I will share one additional thought on this question. Outlets come in two basic varieties: 15 amps and
20 amps. 15 amps are the most common and adequate for many applications. A 20 amp outlet can be identified
with a horizontal opening along with the one vertical hole—it looks like a sideways “T.” Some 20 amp plugs
are oriented this way and will only fit into a 20 amp outlet. This is a safety feature to prevent us from
powering a 20 amp appliance with only 15 amps. This is not often a major concern in the average home, but
some appliances do require 20 amps, so it is good to have this larger capacity circuit when needed. It is
fairly involved to upgrade this from a 15 amp circuit because the wiring will most likely need replaced
with 12-2 AWG wire and a 20 amp breaker needs to be installed in the electrical panel.

Outlets are needed to help us keep things running. Having enough outlets for all our equipment is paramount.
Do you have enough outlets in every room in your home?


9 Quick Electrical Questions #3
1. Can you plug 3-wire plugs into all of your outlets?
2. Do you have GFCI outlets in the kitchen, bathrooms, and garage?
3. Are all your light switches in convenient locations?
4. Do you have enough outlets in every room?
5. Is your electrical panel properly labeled and up to code?
6. Do you have outdoor GFCI outlets?
7. Do you have adequate outdoor lighting?
8. Do breakers or fuses stay on all time?
9. Do you have a generator for backup power during outages?

If you said "No" to any of these questions, then it is time to call an electrician for
some upgrades or fixes in your electrical system.

This third question is all about convenience and user-friendly switch locations. Switches
are kind of like a remote control—we turn a light on or off in a location some distance away
from the actual light. The convenience factor regarding the switch location is important. Let’s
say a kitchen has two doors; one outdoor entrance and another, say to a living room. When you
want to leave the house through the kitchen, it makes sense to have a switch by that outside
entrance so you can switch the light out as you leave. But what about when you leave the kitchen
and go into the living room? Do you really want to walk across the kitchen in the dark, which is
what you will be forced to do if there is only one switch for that kitchen light?

The solution to this dilemma is installing two 3-way switches: one by the outside entrance and
one by the entryway into the living room. This way, no matter which door you use, you will have
e convenient switch to use to turn out that light.

Let’s look at another scenario. Suppose we have a hallway which leads to three bedroom doors.
n the hallway there is a light. Wouldn’t it be convenient if anyone going to bed through thei
\separate bedroom door could turn the hallway light out with a switch by their door? The solution
is two 3-way switches and one 4-way switch. Each person could control that hallway light as they
enter or egress their door.

Sometimes remodeling a home or larger building requires electrical changes, which result in
switch locations that no longer make any sense. At one time, before the remodel, they may have
made perfect sense, but do they now? Also, older homes may need some upgrades to locate switches
in convenient and more sensible locations.

My mom has an old antique bed frame made of wood. The comforter drapes over the edges and hides
this frame. And almost each and every time I am in that room, I hit my shin on that cotton picking
bed frame. If I lived in her house and had to use that bedroom I would most likely kill myself or at
least have permanent bruises on my shins after turning the light out by the door and trying to find
my way back to the bed in the dark. What if we installed a light switch by the headboard of that bed?
I could save my shins and go to sleep peacefully right after turning out the bedroom light right from
the bed. Now that’s a convenience I could live with!

Let us look at one final scenario. Suppose you have candles on each window sill in the front of your
home. Do you have to go into each room and plug in each candle? What if you could control all of these
candles with one switch by your front door?

Here is a test: walk through your daily routine as you live in your home, and I think you will find
that some of your current light switch locations could be improved. You might also discover some
places where a switch could be added to make your daily routine a little easier. Switch locations
should be convenient and user friendly.

Adding a switch is not all that difficult. It does take some time and sometimes a little ingenuity
to route the wire, but overall this is not an impossible task. And the outcome is well worth the
time and money spent to make this convenient upgrade.


9 Quick Electrical Questions #2

1. Can you plug 3-wire plugs into all of your outlets?
2. Do you have GFCI outlets in the kitchen, bathrooms, and garage?
3. Are all your light switches in convenient locations?
4. Do you have enough outlets in every room?
5. Is your electrical panel properly labeled and up to code?
6. Do you have outdoor GFCI outlets?
7. Do you have adequate outdoor lighting?
8. Do breakers or fuses stay on all time?
9. Do you have a generator for backup power during outages?

If you said "No" to any of these questions, then it is time to call an electrician for some upgrades or fixes in your electrical system.

The second question deals with GFCI outlets in the kitchen, bathrooms, and garage. GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) outlets are outlets
filled with tremendous technology. They constantly monitor the voltage across the hot and neutral wires. If there is even a tiny difference,
then the outlet trips. The most glaring example of why this is helpful can be traced to an old movie scene, which depicts someone being
electrocuted in a bathtub when a villain tosses a plugged-in hair dryer into the tub killing the victim. If that same hair dryer had been
plugged into a GFCI outlet, the intent would have been unsuccessful because the GFCI would have detected the ground fault and saved the victim
from electrocution--it works that fast!

Garages and basements can be damp, posing possible danger, too. All unfinished basements and all garages should be protected with GFCI outlets.
If your house was built many years ago, it is likely that your GFCI protection is lacking or, most likely, non-existent. This can be remedied
fairly easily and without a lot of expense. For example, let's suppose you have four outlets above your kitchen counter and they are old, non-
GFCI protected outlets. By having an electrician install one GFCI in that run of outlets, assuming they are connected together, you can have
all of them protected. It only takes one GFCI to protect the run of outlets. This is economical and a wise safety conscious decision.

Anytime an outlet is near water, a GFCI should be installed. Pools, spas, hot tubs, bathrooms, and kitchens are obvious examples. Don't forget
about unfinished basements, the garage, and any outdoor outlets. You might be wondering, are there any cases when a GFCI outlet should not be
installed? Yes. Refrigerators and freezers are two examples. If the GFCI trips and you are unaware of it for a period of time, the food in the
refrigerator or freezer could go bad. Life-saving equipment is another obvious example.

What do you do when a GFCI does trip? There are two buttons on a typical GFCI outlet. One is a test button and one is a reset button. If the
GFCI trips, press the reset button fully. You should hear a click and the GFCI will be powered on again. GFCI outlets do wear out and can
become faulty or stop working altogether. This is a very dangerous situation because you think you are protected but, in fact, are not. This is
why testing each GFCI is so important. Press the test button and the GFCI could trip. Then, simply press the reset button and you're back in
business and you know the GFCI is functioning correctly. The recommendation is to test GFCIs monthly. If the reset button does not reset the
GFCI back into working condition, then it probably needs replaced.

A regular-looking outlet could be GFCI protected and you don't know it simply by looking at it. This is because a circuit can also be GFCI
protected with a GFCI circuit breaker as opposed to a GFCI outlet. The ground fault protection in this case is built into the circuit breaker
instead of the outlet. These special circuit breakers are more expensive but they seem to last longer. They also are installed a little
differently than a regular circuit breaker, but the protection is the same.

Ground faults in a wiring system are not just potentially dangerous, they can be lethal, especially in damp and wet conditions. This is why
the National Electric Code (NEC) requires that all outlets in kitchens, bathrooms, unfinished basements, garages, and outdoors be GFIC
protected. Are yours? Check your outlets in these locations now. If they are not GFCI protected, make it a top priority to get them
replaced. The resulting peace of mind will be well worth it!


9 Quick Electrical Questions

1. Can you plug 3-wire plugs into all of your outlets?
2. Do you have GFCI outlets in the kitchen, bathrooms, and garage?
3. Are all your light switches in convenient locations?
4. Do you have enough outlets in every room?
5. Is your electrical panel properly labeled and up to code?
6. Do you have outdoor GFCI outlets?
7. Do you have adequate outdoor lighting?
8. Do breakers or fuses stay on all time?
9. Do you have a generator for backup power during outages?

If you said "No" to any of these questions, then it is time to call an electrician for some upgrades or fixes in your electrical system.

Over the next several installments, I will look more closely at each of these nine questions, starting with the
first one now: Can you plug 3-wire plugs into all of your outlets?

Plugging a 3-prong cord into a 2-prong outlet with an adapter does not count. The problem is that two-prong outlets do not have a
ground wire present. This is required for a three prong cord and that adapter, does very little to remedy the problem. The ground
wire is a safety feature, which takes any stray electrical current through the ground wire and into the ground, typically through
two ground rods located near your electrical service entrance. A proper grounding system is required by the National Electrical
Code and is an important safety consideration for every home.

Replacing a two-prong outlet with a new 3-prong outlet also does not solve the problem if there is no ground wire in your existing
wiring. A green or bare copper wire is the ground and most older home wiring only has two-conductor wire with no ground. I have
several tools that easily help me determine if a ground wire is present in a home without even removing the outlet cover. First,
I have a little 3-prong circuit tester that plugs into the outlet. On its end there are a series of lights, one of which lights up
if the ground is present. Another tool I can use is my digital multimeter. I measure voltage in three different ways, hot & neutral,
neutral & ground, and hot and ground. By reading these three different measurements I can quickly determine if the polarity is correct
and if the ground is working adequately. Sometimes wires are inadvertently or mistakenly mis-wired and this test can help determine if
this is the case. Of course, if an outlet only has 2-prong receptacles, then obviously no ground is connected. But the wire might
possibly have a ground wire, so safely removing the cover and outlet can find this out.

If you cannot plug 3-wire plugs into all of your outlets, then some upgrades are important to consider. There are basically two
safe options. One is to replace each outlet with a GFCI outlet. This does not provide a ground, but the GFCI does test and detect
ground faults and will trip when one occurs. This is similar to a ground wire doing its job. The best remedy, however, is to install
new wiring in your home with a ground wire present in the new wiring. This can be time consuming and a little pricey, but the result
is a peace of mind, knowing that your electrical system is properly grounded and safe.


Surge Protection - #6

Surge protectors are those little strips of electrical outlets that typically turn on with a lighted rocker switch.
A true surge protector has surge protection built in to the unit and will be labeled as such on the packaging.

The advantage of a surge protector is that it protects an electrical device from electrical surges. These surges can
be caused during a black or brown out or by lightning storms. A power surge can damage equipment in the blink of an eye.
The surge protector is built to take the surge itself instead of the electrical device plugged into it.

One additional tip with surge protectors: do not plug a vacuum cleaner into them. The startup demand can damage a
surge protector. I actually did this once before I knew the danger of this scenario. As soon as I flicked on the vacuum
cleaner the surge protector was fried. It may not happen all the time, but why run the risk? Just plug your vacuum into
an ordinary wall outlet and save the surge protector to do its thing with other more vulnerable electrical devices.

A surge protector is relatively cheap protection for the important devices we run in our homes all the time. I recommend
using a surge protector for computers, TVs, charging cell phones, and pretty much any electronic device.




AC / DC - #5

No, I am talking about the great rock band, AC/DC. Although, incidentally, the band did get the
idea for their name from their sister, Margaret Young, who saw the initials “AC/DC” on a
sewing machine. The brothers liked the name and felt that it adequately symbolized the
raw energy of their band.

What I am talking about is alternating current and direct current, which were the exact symbols
the band’s sister saw on that sewing machine. AC for alternating current and DC for direct current.

Historically, Thomas Alva Edison did most of his experimentation with direct current. Direct
current comes from sources like batteries. The wave length of direct current is constant.
Alternating current is produced from power plants and transformers. The wave of
alternating current dips equally above and below the line, thus alternating from one to the
other. House current uses mostly alternating current. One exception might be your
doorbell, which sometimes uses direct current. In America, alternating current cycles at 60
complete cycles per second. Alternating current is more easily produced than direct
current and it can be carried over long lengths, such as through the big power lines you
see crossing our communities. One other advantage of alternating current is that if you
accidentally grab onto a live wire, the alternating current will wax and wane slightly,
allowing you at some point to let go of the electrically charged wire. Direct current is more
constant and a lot harder to let go of than alternating current.



Outdoor Lights - #4

Outdoor lights serve many purposes and offer several advantages. Coming home to a dark
property can be dangerous so lighting the way makes sense. Outdoor lights also offer some
security because burglars prefer to work in the dark where they cannot be seen. Outdoor
lights can also highlight the special features of a home or they can provide some
landscape lighting. Outdoor lighting is more than just a convenience and you should think
seriously about the purpose for adding outdoor lighting on your property.

LED lights have changed the landscape in outdoor lighting. Now we can run lights for less
costs and run them longer. LED stands for “light emitting diode.” They run on less watts
and have a much longer life than incandescent lights. And, unlike fluorescent lights, will
come on immediately even in cold weather.

Mercury lights used to be the standard for outdoor dusk to dawn lights. They look like
street lights and provide decent lighting in an area like in front of a garage or shed. I just
did a job replacing several of these old light fixtures. The problem started with one bad
fixture, so I was asked to replace that one. When the client saw the new light he was
surprised because of how much smaller it was compared to the old mercury light. I
assured him that this little light produced more lumens than the old light. I don’t think he
believed me, but the next day he confirmed my statement and asked me to replace two
more old lights!

Do you have outdoor lights? Do they work the way you prefer them to work? Are they
expensive to operate over time? Do they produce nice, pleasing light? Maybe it is time for
an upgrade. Taking the time to think and plan seriously about outdoor lighting can serve you
well into the future both in terms of appearance and in cost savings.




Time Switches Automate Your Life - #3

Switches come in many varieties but they basically have one function: turn on or off a device.
The most common switches in a house are light switches. They are commonly a single-
pole, single-throw switch, which means they simply have an on/off function by flipping a
toggle switch mounted on the wall.

Time switches are similar—they turn on and off devices, but the difference is they do so
automatically without you having to flip the switch. For example, let’s say you have an
outdoor light you would like to come on at dusk and then turn off at 11pm. You set the
time switch to the on time and the off time. When these times occur, the switch powers
the light to either turn on or turn off.

This can be hugely beneficial when you return home in the dark but the lights are already
turned on because the power switch did its job. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the
benefit of powering off a light can help avoid the problem and waste of electricity when we
forget to turn off a light manually. Another added advantage is that lights can be turned on
and off when nobody is actually home but to the outsider it appears the someone is at
home because the lights are going on and off.

What time switch applications would benefit you? These time switches can often be located in
place of an existing switch or added on. There are multiple advantages and applications
that you could consider in your home.


Electrical Tip of the Week - #2

Your electrical main panel and sub panels, if you have any, go mostly unnoticed by most
homeowners. They provide power to all the branch circuits in your house so that devices like
appliances, water heaters, lights, and outlets have power. This goes unnoticed because
you do not have do anything at all to make this happen. The electrons flow
through the wires whenever power is called for by a device.

There is, however, something you really should pay attention to with your panels: proper and
accurate labeling. Knowing which circuit to turn off in an emergency can be crucial.
Another common problem is when a circuit is mis-labeled or not updated when a change
is made. This can cause confusion when trying to turn off a circuit to work on and worse
yet, it can make you think a circuit is off when it really is not.

Electricians have a method of labeling a new panel so they can properly connect all the branch
circuits in a house into the panel. Keeping this information up to date is very
important. Take a look at your panel and make sure each circuit has a label, indicating
which branch circuit it is connected to in your house. If the labels are blank or you think
they should be updated and/or corrected, call an electrician to do this for you. It is a
simple job but an important one.


Electrical Tip of the Week - #1

Did you know that you are supposed to test your GFCI outlets once a month? The test is easy.
Just press the test button on the outlet and the circuit should trip (turn off). You should
hear a click when the button is pressed. If you want to be double sure the test worked, plug
in a small lamp or other small electrical device and try to turn it on. It should not turn on
because the GFCI has tripped the outlet/circuit, which is supposed to happen if something goes wrong.
Just make sure you press the reset button to turn power back onto this outlet/circuit. One GFCI outlet
can connect to other normal outlets but they are still protected by the GFCI.

GFCI outlets are required in all kitchens and bathrooms, basements, and outdoor buildings. Instead of
GFCI outlets, some homes and businesses have GFCI circuit breakers instead. They are more expensive but
they are supposed to last longer than the GFCI outlets. These GFCI circuit breakers can be tested, too.
Test your GFCI outlets today and then about once a month.